It includes the heavy, memory-laden dishes that these days mainly show up in the matzoh kugel and pot roast at the Passover seder, or the herring in sour cream and nut-studded coffee cakes we eat when we break the Yom Kippur fast. That means bagels and stuffed cabbage, kugel and blintzes. This is what most of us think of as Jewish cooking: Ashkenazic cooking transmitted through the American immigrant experience. Recipe to try: Anne Whiteman's Birthday Kugel Besides, how can you not love a book with a chapter on "The Joys of Being Sick in Bed"? Now out of print, this book with close to 300 recipes is worth searching out in the public library or in a second-hand bookstore like Bonnie Slotnick Cookbooks.īest for Ashkenazi Cuisine Jewish Home Cooking
Although the family did not keep kosher-she gives recipes for Manhattan clam chowder and fried-egg and bacon sandwiches-most of the foods are classically Jewish-American, with plenty of "kosher-style" dishes such as cabbage soup and blintzes, stuffed cabbage, mandelbrot, and a thin, crisp potato kugel that will let you celebrate Hanukkah without standing over the stove frying latkes while everyone eats. Recipe to try: Mandelbrot (Almond Bread Slices)Ī personal favorite, not only for its impeccable recipes but for its loving tribute to a mother and the memories of a bygone New York City, this book is about the wonderful food eaten every day in the "Austro-Polish-Rumanian-Jewish" household in which New York Times restaurant critic Mimi Sheraton grew up. Evoking a place and time from long ago, and sometimes providing a new perspective on the present, these books make for great reading.Įditor's Favorite From My Mother's Kitchen And that's why you'll find such a rich variety of flavors and stories in some of our favorite Jewish cookbooks. The only requirement is that the dishes follow the rules of kashruth ("kosher" in English), such as separating milk and meat, and eschewing pork and shellfish. But in truth, there are as many varieties of Jewish cooking as there are places in the world where Jews have settled, from Buenos Aires to Shanghai to Brooklyn, New York. We tend to divide Jewish cooking into two categories: Ashkenazic from Middle and Eastern Europe, and Sephardic from the Mediterranean and stretching eastward to the Middle East (including Spain, Portugal, and North Africa). To someone else, the words may evoke lamb tagine and rice with lentils, while to others-even the most observant-it could include foods as varied and unexpected as beef jerky, eggplant Parmesan, and chicken tikka masala.
W hen I think of Jewish food, I think of brisket and latkes.
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